彩雲

Serious washoku on the ground floor of an Esaka apartment building. Lunch teishoku — hamburg, karaage, ginger pork, chashu — run around ¥850 and come with several Kyoto-obanzai-style sides, a lineup "beyond what lunch has any right to be." The meat is tender and portions solid. The evening Hana course (¥6,000) runs the full classical sequence from starter through fried dish, sashimi, soup, main, rice and dessert, in a well-made Japanese setting. A husband-and-wife team, so the pace is unhurried.